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| Canine Training Center: Advice |
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Looking for a dog trainer in your area? The dog trainers listed below
offer a variety of dog training services for dogs and puppies. Find
the right trainer for your dog, or click here to advertise your dog
training services on this page.
offer a variety of dog training services for dogs and puppies. Find
the right trainer for your dog, or click here to advertise your dog
training services on this page.
Jumping Up
There are many behaviours that while cute in puppy hood become not only
dangerous but down right annoying in the adult dog. Jumping up is one of these
behaviours that is quickly learnt as a young cuddly puppy and one of the hardest
habits to break in older dogs.
Puppies jump to say hello, they like you, want to get close to your face to lick you
but the secret of breaking this habit is not to let it start in the first place. If it is
already happening then you need to look at things from your puppies point of view.
They want attention and they don't mind how they get it. An owner pushing a and
shouting. It's all attention that the puppy finds rewarding.
To avoid jumping up, when your puppy starts, stand still and turn your body
language away from your puppy. It is important that you don't make eye contact
with your puppy as some find this reward enough to keep on going. Your puppy will
soon tire and sit and look at you - quickly praise and reward your puppy for having
all feet on the floor. This is the behaviour you want. This will take some time if the
behaviour is already becoming established as it has a reward history. It is
important to stick with it as no behaviour changes over night but within a week or
two and if everyone is consistent and the jumping is not rewarded in any way then
the habit should diminish.
If jumping is an already established habit
First teach your puppy to sit on every cue that you give. He must be consistent
with this. Your puppy cannot jump and sit at the same time. When you enter the
house and your puppy jumps on you to say hello, ask him to sit then praise and
reward. It is useful in these cases if you can set up the scenario, and get friends
and family to help you. Your puppy will learn a great deal quicker if you can enlist
the help of some willing volunteers.
Have your puppy on a lead when you know visitors are due to call - ask your
puppy to sit while you let your visitor in and praise and reward when your puppy
sits. If your dog is not very food motivated then have a toy in your pocket and give
it to your visitor to play a quick game when your puppy offers the right behaviour.
There will always be one person who calls at your home who states that 'it doesn't
matter - I just love dogs.' BE FIRM - IT DOES MATTER. A WELL TRAINED DOG IS
A STRESS FREE, HAPPY DOG.
There are many behaviours that while cute in puppy hood become not only
dangerous but down right annoying in the adult dog. Jumping up is one of these
behaviours that is quickly learnt as a young cuddly puppy and one of the hardest
habits to break in older dogs.
Puppies jump to say hello, they like you, want to get close to your face to lick you
but the secret of breaking this habit is not to let it start in the first place. If it is
already happening then you need to look at things from your puppies point of view.
They want attention and they don't mind how they get it. An owner pushing a and
shouting. It's all attention that the puppy finds rewarding.
To avoid jumping up, when your puppy starts, stand still and turn your body
language away from your puppy. It is important that you don't make eye contact
with your puppy as some find this reward enough to keep on going. Your puppy will
soon tire and sit and look at you - quickly praise and reward your puppy for having
all feet on the floor. This is the behaviour you want. This will take some time if the
behaviour is already becoming established as it has a reward history. It is
important to stick with it as no behaviour changes over night but within a week or
two and if everyone is consistent and the jumping is not rewarded in any way then
the habit should diminish.
If jumping is an already established habit
First teach your puppy to sit on every cue that you give. He must be consistent
with this. Your puppy cannot jump and sit at the same time. When you enter the
house and your puppy jumps on you to say hello, ask him to sit then praise and
reward. It is useful in these cases if you can set up the scenario, and get friends
and family to help you. Your puppy will learn a great deal quicker if you can enlist
the help of some willing volunteers.
Have your puppy on a lead when you know visitors are due to call - ask your
puppy to sit while you let your visitor in and praise and reward when your puppy
sits. If your dog is not very food motivated then have a toy in your pocket and give
it to your visitor to play a quick game when your puppy offers the right behaviour.
There will always be one person who calls at your home who states that 'it doesn't
matter - I just love dogs.' BE FIRM - IT DOES MATTER. A WELL TRAINED DOG IS
A STRESS FREE, HAPPY DOG.
Teaching Bite Inhibition
It is important when you have your puppy to teach him to inhibit his bite. It teaches
a 'soft mouth' how to use his mouth gently. Why do we need to teach bite
inhibition? Accidents happen, we fall drunkly over the dog, trap his tail in the car
door or stand on him when he gets underfoot and when in pain dogs bite and
chances are if you have taught your dog good 'bite inhibition' then the damage will
not be great. This does not make him a 'bad dog' it makes him a 'dog'
your to inhibit his bite that training will carry on if he is ever put in a position where
he feels the need to bite.
So how do you go about teaching this? There are four stages. The first two stages
involve making the puppies bites more and more gentle. The second stage is
stopping the biting altogether. The training must be done in this order.
No painful bites please. Most puppies will stop biting with a high-pitched squeal
from you. If they stop praise and continue the game. The puppies that get more
excited by your squeal can be either tired, over stimulated or terriers!! If your
puppy takes no notice of your yelp end the game and walk away from your puppy.
Remove all your attention, get up and walk away, give your puppy time out from
you - but do not punish either. Puppy biting is natural dog behaviour - it's a puppy
being a puppy.
Now we need to get rid of the pressure. You now want to teach your puppy to gum
you to death! You need to set a precedence of how hard they can bite and you do
this gradually. If he bites harder yelp! Gradually you need to set your puppy's limit
softer and softer. Remember to do this step by step, as a big jump between
pressures will confuse your dog.
When you say stop you mean stop! Teach 'take it' and 'leave it' and 'drop it.' You
need to be able to start and stop a game under control.
You may never touch human skin or clothing with your teeth unless invited. This is
just taking stage 3 one step further and having everything under your control.
None of these stages require any punishment greater than a 'time out' and
withdrawal of attention. When you teach bite inhibition you need to put your hands
in your dogs mouth all the time, get him used them being there, inspect his gums
and his teeth - for your vets sake.
It is important when you have your puppy to teach him to inhibit his bite. It teaches
a 'soft mouth' how to use his mouth gently. Why do we need to teach bite
inhibition? Accidents happen, we fall drunkly over the dog, trap his tail in the car
door or stand on him when he gets underfoot and when in pain dogs bite and
chances are if you have taught your dog good 'bite inhibition' then the damage will
not be great. This does not make him a 'bad dog' it makes him a 'dog'
your to inhibit his bite that training will carry on if he is ever put in a position where
he feels the need to bite.
So how do you go about teaching this? There are four stages. The first two stages
involve making the puppies bites more and more gentle. The second stage is
stopping the biting altogether. The training must be done in this order.
No painful bites please. Most puppies will stop biting with a high-pitched squeal
from you. If they stop praise and continue the game. The puppies that get more
excited by your squeal can be either tired, over stimulated or terriers!! If your
puppy takes no notice of your yelp end the game and walk away from your puppy.
Remove all your attention, get up and walk away, give your puppy time out from
you - but do not punish either. Puppy biting is natural dog behaviour - it's a puppy
being a puppy.
Now we need to get rid of the pressure. You now want to teach your puppy to gum
you to death! You need to set a precedence of how hard they can bite and you do
this gradually. If he bites harder yelp! Gradually you need to set your puppy's limit
softer and softer. Remember to do this step by step, as a big jump between
pressures will confuse your dog.
When you say stop you mean stop! Teach 'take it' and 'leave it' and 'drop it.' You
need to be able to start and stop a game under control.
You may never touch human skin or clothing with your teeth unless invited. This is
just taking stage 3 one step further and having everything under your control.
None of these stages require any punishment greater than a 'time out' and
withdrawal of attention. When you teach bite inhibition you need to put your hands
in your dogs mouth all the time, get him used them being there, inspect his gums
and his teeth - for your vets sake.
| Do you operate a dog training / dog obedience school in New England and want to be listed here with a complete description and link to your Web site? Click here for more information. |
Recalls
One of the main problems many dog owners experience is that their dogs won't
come back when called. You, as an owner have to be more fun and exciting than
all the other dogs and environmental distractions around.
An owner who just walks a young dog on the same old route, day in, day out,
without paying much attention until it is time to get the lead on should not be
surprised when the dog goes and finds something more interesting to do and will
become oblivious to your calls. After all, what fun are you to be with!
To begin with, train your puppy to come to you when you are indoors and then in
the garden before venturing out into the big, wide world. Do not let your dog
wander too far away. Most dogs have a critical distance; out of that distance they
are more likely to ignore your call, so you may want to use a long line so you can
create distance yet still keep control. Call him at least six times during your walk
and either pet him, treat him or play a game with him. Put him on the lead for a
short time and then let him go again. This is a good time to install a release
command so that he understands that now he can go and play. Keep a special toy
for when you are out and only use it when he recalls quickly.
Change route frequently, change direction, play hide and seek with him, run in the
opposite direction. Nothing makes a dog run faster than a disappearing owner.
What you are doing is training your dog to watch you and to see where you are
going. In most cases it is the owner watching the dog instead of the dog watching
the owner. Between the ages of six to twelve months, depending on breed, some
dogs develop selective deafness which usually means they have found something
more interesting to do rather than going back to the owner. Increase the training
sessions, keeping them short and fun, and make yourself more interesting to your
dog when out on your walks by playing and interacting with him.
Under no circumstances should you punish your dog for being slow on a recall. If
you do why would he want to come back next time? Don't forget to use a recall
command like 'come'; many owners just call their dogs name and expect the dog to
understand that they would like them to come back!
Practice recalls with an adolescent dog at least twenty times a day from all round
the house and from the garden.
Be fair to your dog, be clear in what you want, and enjoy your training.
One of the main problems many dog owners experience is that their dogs won't
come back when called. You, as an owner have to be more fun and exciting than
all the other dogs and environmental distractions around.
An owner who just walks a young dog on the same old route, day in, day out,
without paying much attention until it is time to get the lead on should not be
surprised when the dog goes and finds something more interesting to do and will
become oblivious to your calls. After all, what fun are you to be with!
To begin with, train your puppy to come to you when you are indoors and then in
the garden before venturing out into the big, wide world. Do not let your dog
wander too far away. Most dogs have a critical distance; out of that distance they
are more likely to ignore your call, so you may want to use a long line so you can
create distance yet still keep control. Call him at least six times during your walk
and either pet him, treat him or play a game with him. Put him on the lead for a
short time and then let him go again. This is a good time to install a release
command so that he understands that now he can go and play. Keep a special toy
for when you are out and only use it when he recalls quickly.
Change route frequently, change direction, play hide and seek with him, run in the
opposite direction. Nothing makes a dog run faster than a disappearing owner.
What you are doing is training your dog to watch you and to see where you are
going. In most cases it is the owner watching the dog instead of the dog watching
the owner. Between the ages of six to twelve months, depending on breed, some
dogs develop selective deafness which usually means they have found something
more interesting to do rather than going back to the owner. Increase the training
sessions, keeping them short and fun, and make yourself more interesting to your
dog when out on your walks by playing and interacting with him.
Under no circumstances should you punish your dog for being slow on a recall. If
you do why would he want to come back next time? Don't forget to use a recall
command like 'come'; many owners just call their dogs name and expect the dog to
understand that they would like them to come back!
Practice recalls with an adolescent dog at least twenty times a day from all round
the house and from the garden.
Be fair to your dog, be clear in what you want, and enjoy your training.